Information quoted by Mapei: Do it yourselfer Guide.

 

Preparing the Surface

 

1. Prior to installation, surface preparation is the most important part.

 

            1. Make sure the surface is dry, level, and flat

            2. The surface must be completely free of any miscellaneous    material (e.g. paint, wallpaper)

            3. All joints, nail holes and screw holes must be filled and sanded.

 

2. If you are installing tile over concrete, the slab must be at least 28 days old.

 

            1. Treating the concrete with a waterproofing and crack-isolation membrane will help to avoid transferring hairline cracks up through the tile.

            2. Do not install the tile directly over expansion joints or control joints.

            3. If you have cracks larger then 1/16”, please contact our showroom at 1-250-729-9766

 

3. If you are installing tile over a plywood surface, be sure to use exterior-quality plywood/ some kind of cement board.

 

            1. Plywood subfloors must consist of two layers, with a minimum thickness of 5/8” for each layer (glued and screwed per manufacturer’s instructions to equal a minimum thickness total of 1 ¼”.)

 

4. If the installation is around a bathtub or shower, coat the seams between the cement boards using a flexible waterproofing and crack-isolation membrane.

 

            1. The shower pan should be placed at an angle to avoid leaks.

            2. Keracaulk should be used on the tub tile line as a replacement

            for grout.

 

Measure and Mark

 

1. Measure and mark the center points of two opposite walls. Create a chalk line with a chalk line tool connecting the two points.

2. Measure and mark the center points of the two remaining walls. Create a chalk line connecting these points; this creates your center point.

3. Check that lines are square by using a framing square and adjust as needed.

4. Test-fit a row of tiles with spacers along reference lines to check for accuracy and determine tile cuts. Adjust reference lines as needed.

5. Measure the length of two tiles plus two grout joints and record this measurement.

6. Begin with your horizontal center line and measure the number you recorded in Step 5. Create a chalk line. Continue to upper edge of room and then do the same below your horizontal center line.

7. Repeat step 6 with your vertical center line using the same measurement number from step 5.

 

Cutting your Tile

 

1. When cutting tile, ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR.

 

2. Remember to cut all tiles before you begin to apply the mortar.

 

3. Try to avoid cuts the result in a tile less than half its original size.

 

4. To make straight cuts, score the tile surface with a tile cutter and snap the pieces apart.

 

5. For curved or rounded cuts, use tile nippers.

 

6. When you are working with a natural stone, use a wet saw.

 

7. When you are finished cutting the tiles, smooth the rough edges with a rubbing stone.

 

Setting Your Tile in 5 Easy Steps

 

Step 1 – Mix mortar: follow instructions on product packaging for proper mixing procedures.

 

Step 2 – Spread mortar: using a notched trowel, spread mortar while holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle to the floor or wall surface.

 

            1. Use the straight edge of the trowel to apply a thin, even coat to the surface.

            2. Follow immediately with more mortar and “comb” the mortar, using the notched side of the trowel to achieve an even-setting bed.

            3. Only spread as much material as can be covered with tiles before mortar dries or loses tackiness to the touch.

 

Step 3 – Place tile: place the first tile at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical control lines, making sure the tile is properly aligned with both chalk lines.

 

            1. It is recommended to apply adhesive to the back of the tile (otherwise known as back buttering) when installing 12”x12” or larger, if the tile is concave underneath or if the tile us wet from using a wet saw.

            2. Set tiles firmly and apply pressure to the face of the tile while twisting to help ensure that the mortar transfers to the back of the tile for a solid bond.

 

Step 4 – Set tile: once tiles are in position, use a rubber mallet and beating block to pound in the tiles, ensuring that they are properly embedded.

 

            1. Keep a wet sponge nearby for quick cleanup in case you drop mortar or adhesive on the tiles or any other surface.

            2. Keep the grout joints clear of any setting material.

            3. The depth of the grout joints should be a minimum of 2/3 the thickness of the tile.

            4. Tile spacers can ensure that you will have straight and even grout lines. For proper tile placement, place tile spacers where the tile corners intersect.

 

Step 5 – Check coverage: after laying a few rows of tiles, check several of the set tiles for adequate mortar coverage by lifting them up. Make sure that at least 80% of the back is covered with adhesive for interior applications and 95% for exterior applications.

 

            1. Avoid disturbing or walking on tiles.

            2. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on setting materials before grouting. Drying times will vary due to temperature, humidity, porosity of tile and substrate, setting material.

 

Grouting in 3 Easy Steps

 

Step 1 – Prep Area: wipe, brush and vacuum the grout joints to ensure the area is free from standing water, dirt, dust and foreign debris.

 

            1. Remove the spacers and excess mortar to ensure even joints.

            2. Certain types of tiles – such as heavy pitted tiles, and natural stones – require special preparation prior to grouting. (The application of a protective coating may be necessary to prevent entrapment of cement particles and permanent staining from color pigments.)

 

Step 2 – Mix and apply grout: before applying the grout, moisten the surface of the tile with a damp cloth or sponge.

 

            1. Follow instructions on product packaging or proper mixing 

            procedures.

            2. Use a minimal amount of water so that the grout joints

            remain dry.

            3. Next, holding the float at a 45 degree angle, force grout into the joints with no voids.

            4. When grouting a large area, grout and clean one section at a time rather than applying grout over the entire area.

            5. Remove excess grout from the tile surface by moving the rubber float at a 90 degree angle across the tile in a diagonal direction.

 

Step 3 – Cleanup: when grouting a tile installation, begin to clean up as soon as the grout begins to firm up and there is no longer a transfer of grout to your finger (usually between 10-30 minutes)

 

            1. Never allow the grout to remain on the surface of the tiles for an extended length of time before completing the initial cleaning.

            2. After each wipedown, rinse and wring out the sponge so that no excess water stays on the tile surface.

            3. Change the rinse water frequently. (having multiple buckets of clean water at hand will simplify this process.)

            4. Make sure that all tiles are thoroughly cleaned before grout

            dries.

            5. About an hour later, come back and buff the tiles with a soft clean rag, terry-cloth towel or cheesecloth to remove any remaining haze.